Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Rice and Shine

I was surrounded by water and forest and I loved it. One of the two native Indians was lazily gazing across the water while the other steered the engine-powered praw merely in the right direction. He pointed to the other side of the river towards "La Palma", a village some 2 km away. After 2 hours and some forks, the river became a whole lot smaller and more shallow. The propeller from the boat's engine clogged up a number of times because more and more water-vegetation made navigating difficult. Eventually we sat foot on land and the children that lived in "La Marea" came running from all over the village to see the gringos arriving.
Just like the two Emberos (one of the 7 different tribes spread throughout Panama) that awaited us in Puerto Kimba, a little harbour far into the jungle of Panama, they were dressed in a traditional manner. That meant that they dressed in a single piece of cloth to cover their genitals, wearing necklaces crossed over their chest and painted in tribal paintings from the cheekbones down to their feet. The women and the kids all wanted to be a helping hand and took the few ounces off luggage out of our hands so we strolled empty handed, followed by a stream of people through the village. Along the way we looked upon many huts built on poles 1,5 two 2,5 meters high (in the rainy season the whole village floods). Little eyes peered at our appearance which seemed to be so odd that many little hands were sucked by many little mouths. When we cheerfully said "Hola !" to everyone, nobody seemed to response which gave us the impression that they didn't speak any Spanish.
Later we heard from the chief of the village that the opposite was true: the children could hardly speak their own language anymore and amongst them they communicated in Spanish. Together with their language other things from their culture were also disappearing. They still painted each other with the fruit they used for that, but the paintings were now merely decorative and have lost all meaning over time. (you could tell someone's marital status, amount of children and many things more by their tribal paintings)...

San Blas

That morning we wanted to see the sunrise, so we woke up early. Leaving our bamboo hut we noticed that we were on the opposite side of the island. After a swift 30 second walk we reach the far east corner alas we went in the water. Swimming and floating we watched the sun rise over the crystal clear ocean blue water.
Around 7 o'clock we used a very rationed breakfast (all the meals are so rationed, that they advise you to foresee some extra food for in between). Hopefully today the locals that run the island don't start drinking even before most people have woken up (which is generally around 7:30). We're wondering if they only promised us lobster for dinner because they were all so drunk (and some of them also something else) and didn't feel like catching anything (or even getting of their chair)...
>From our 30m wide island we can see about 20 other little island (20 out of 374), some so small they only harbour one tree (no hammocks there)

Friday, September 25, 2009

Miraflor, Panama Canal

The Panama Canal is 80 km long. We didn't manage to find a yacht that wanted to take us through for an affordable price, so we just went to see the locks.
Boring.

Breakfast @ Chitre

Some countries seem to develop a culture upon their own culture whereas travelers are involved. In Costa Rica and Panama lots of Hostels try to make their places more attractive by offering free pancakes for breakfast (and coffee of course)... Although mostly this consist of providing a bag of premixed pancake dough that you only have to mix with water and is meant to make American Style Pancakes, not the delicious Crepes as they call our European Pancakes. When you're also offered bananas you should consider yourself in a luxury situation...
Some hostels try to be different and even offer a free continental breakfast. As far as I know that means bread with cheese, ham, scrambled eggs, fruit, jam and coffee or tea. In some cases it means a range of bread with a choice of cheese, your egg made in your choice of style with your mix of vegetables, yogurt and so on. In this hostel we stayed at, it meant: toast with jam and coffee...

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Black Beaches

Our next destination is called Santa Catalina, a sleepy little town near the west-coast. It's so little that there's only two stores and when there's no tomatoes anymore you gotta wait till monday when they're re-supplied. We stay in a place called Hostel Rolos. Next day we plan to go to the beach and surf and fish, but when we come to the beach it is very windy and kind of dangerous because of falling coconuts. We decide to turn back and 2 minutes later it starts raining pretty hard. Viktor stays on the beach to fish. After a while it's starts raining twice as hard, but we're already soaking wet so we don't mind. We sing the few phrases "Why does it always rain on me ?", "I'm singing in the rain" and "I'm only happy when it rains" and keep on walking.
The next day the sun is out so we head to the beach (this time we walk to the beach in front of us, which is a 30 sec walk). There we play some frees-bee (Thomas was national champion) and enjoy the black volcanic sand.
The morning after we're leaving with the first bus at 7:00. The bus sometimes drives only 15 meters between pickups as everyone is waiting for it on the doorstep of their house. After 30 minutes we've traveled the distance that you'd cover in 5 minutes with a normal car.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Volcano with a lid

After spending 3 nights in Bocas del Toro, where I've only been drinking, mainly, I decided to go to Boquete, a small village in the mountains. I asked Victor, a german guy I met before in Costa Rica to come along so together we left Bocas around 14:00. I planned to start travelling around 10, but the hostel had problems with their wireless internet so I offered to help them out, which I couldn't due to missing passwords and unreachable people in charge but they offered me a T-shirt for the effort anyway.
>From ashore we had to take a bus to David, a city way more south. At first I didn't realize that David was such a long way from Bocas, but eventually it made sense since we payed $7 a person. Since we arrived in David just before 6 pm, I figured we would have to stay over in David, but once we arrived at the terminal, we figured out that there were still buses going that way because it was only a 45 minute drive. We booked in a hotel, appropriately called Hostel Boquete, which was situated on the river side. First thing we noticed was that Boquete is a lot colder than Bocas. Before we got to the hostel we met some people that Victor had met before and they offered us some coffee bread that they just bought. It was a little piece of heaven !
Next day we moved from this hostel to another one, because we didn't thought this hostel to be very social and ended up in Hostel Palacio which was also only $8,5 against $12 for the former. The owner very enthusiastically told us everything there was to do in Boquete so we decided to go for a short walk around the town. A little to my disappointment, the trip followed the road the whole time and the only highlight besides some views was "mi jardin es su jardin", a garden full of beautiful flowers although somewhat structured too strict, with cement pavements giving you a slight disneyland experience.
Although the trip was rather short, I ended up with a blister on one of my feet.
Back in the hostel we bought and prepared dinner while making plans to go and climb the volcano Baru. I certainly wanted too see that since I had decided against paying for volcano Fortuna and this one was for free (apart from the taxi ride there). First we were just the two of us, but after meeting with the other people in hostel Palacio we soon found some more souls to join us. After a while everyone who stayed in the hostel was sitting outside and talking and we convinced some more people, so I told the group that everyone who wanted to come I'd make Indian Curry for dinner the night before we'd leave. Ali, an American girl didn't want to come at first because she didn't do hikes for holiday, but eventually she said she'd come because of the peer pressure.
The next day we found out that there would be 11 of us and after eating and buckling up we jumped in the taxi that arrived there at 22:45.
We were lucky concerning the weather, since it was a starry night and we were in the middle of the rainy season. After walking/climbing for about 1,5 hour, we started to understand it wasn't going to be a stroll in the park and my blister from the day before had been bothering me from the start. We've only finished a fifth of the hike and I already felt like all the energy had been drained from my legs. I remembered from my survival guide that sugar quickly restores energy so I ate a Snickers(TM) and then I thought we should continue. My T-Shirt was already wet-through from my sweat and the temperature dropped with every step we went higher. Once we started walking again I couldn't believe how much energy I regained from just that half bar of a Snickers and I believed again I could make it. Around 5:00 we finally arrived at the top and the sky was stilled filled with many stars. The volcano didn't look like a volcano at all and the top was covered in some buildings with plenty antennas with dishes and other emission equipment. It was very windy which made the actual 4 degrees Celsius feel even colder. Viktor and me had decided to build a campfire there so we started searching for wood. At the other side of the rim there was a 270 degrees view into the underlying valley and I could see the lights of a big city, probably David in the far distance. We found some wood, but not enough to make a big campfire so we returned and decided to stay behind the buildings out of the wind. Some of us started dancing to keep warm, others sat down and curled up together to share the little bit of warmth there was to share.
When the light of dawn started to arise, with it also the fog came and the sunrise where we came for was fragmented in some blue spots of air every 5 minutes. Being brighter now, we managed to find some more carton and other burnable stuff and we made a little campfire. After a while we decide to descend back to earth which was supposedly to last about 5 hours as well. Starting walking again after a break, we looked like a bunch of old people because everyone suffered from something that hurted especially when starting again: some had sore knees, some had sore thighs, a sore back and I suffered from one growing blister and several accompanying smaller blisters on both feet. I thought descending was going to be less painful as they were in the back of my feet, but I had to reconsider quickly.
Around 14:00 we arrived bac at our starting point and we were all glad to be in the taxi, heading back to the hostel. Even during the short 15" ride, several members of our expedition couldn't keep their eyes open and fell asleep in the van.
We were all proud of ourselves for doing this, but for now we just wanted to sleep...